Maghreb Voyager
Editorial travel reporting from Morocco — riads, the Sahara, the High Atlas, and the Atlantic coast.
The Riad Revival of the Medina
A new generation of riad owners is rewriting Marrakech hospitality — quieter, smaller, and built around the courtyards locals always knew were the point.
The Marrakech Night Souk Walk
After the day-trippers leave, the medina becomes a slower, stranger place. A route through the after-hours souks.
Fes Without a Guide: Three Days on Foot
Getting lost in the world's largest car-free urban area is the only way to actually see it. Notes from three days walking Fes el-Bali.
Sleeping Under Stars in Erg Chebbi
The dunes outside Merzouga are not the empty Sahara of the imagination. They are stranger and warmer than that.
Where Travellers Go After Morocco
Once you've spent a week in a riad, hotels feel hollow. We followed the pattern of where Morocco regulars head next.
Crossing the Tizi n'Tichka High Atlas Pass
The old road from Marrakech to Ouarzazate has been rebuilt, but the view from the top hasn't changed in a thousand years.
The Essaouira Wind, the Fish, and the Old Port
Essaouira does not perform for visitors. The wind handles the marketing.
Chefchaouen Beyond the Blue Walls
The blue town has been photographed to death. The town that's actually there is older, quieter, and entirely worth the bus ride.
The Saharan Edge: Mhamid and the End of the Road
South of Zagora the tarmac thins out, the palms run thin, and Morocco starts looking like somewhere else entirely.
Argan Oil and the Souss Valley Co-operatives
The argan trade has been romanticised and exploited in roughly equal measure. We visited the women still running it themselves.
A Quiet Week in the Anti-Atlas
South of the High Atlas, the mountains go red and the villages go quiet. A week walking the painted granite country around Tafraoute.